Interview with a Culinary Legend: Arnaud Bignon

Hello!

If you have not been here for a while, let me say "welcome back!" If this is your first read of this blog, let me say "welcome!" followed by, "where the hell have you been!?"

Last year I made the mistake of thinking I could do a blog post a day. I hadn't realised the full scale of this undertaking and sort of fell of the map. After months of seclusion from the "blogosphere" I am well and truly back with a few new recipes for you to try and perhaps even a couple of photos...?!

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Below you'll find an interview I did back in the Autumn with Chef Arnaud Bignon. I recently took my dining partner to the Greenhouse for a birthday tasting menu. Having been quite scathing in my last review about their price revisions I can report back that, in all honesty, the restaurant is still great value for money. Although service was a little too attentive (don't worry she was new) the experience overall was lovely, with a personal visit from Chef himself.

See below for interview transcript whilst I write a couple of quick recipes for "humble pie" and "Oeuf a la visage"...[gets out pen]

B) You have told me before you hold you Mother in high esteem regarding who introduced you to           cooking.

A)     Yes, when I was young I started coopking with my mother. My grandfather had a large garden and he grew lots of vegetables, and he showed me the fruit and that was the first point I thought, wow that’s really great. So I started cooking with my mother three times a week. I didn’t have any family in the industry before me so I was the first.

B)      Does that explain why you have such a strong gravitational pull towards vegetables in your cooking?

      A)     Yes, vegetables and produce in general. For me I believe that you can’t cook well without great produce. I beliebe it is the base for all ways of cooking. What we do is very classic, maybe a pairing with a special spice, two or three ingredients in creative combinations but without great product I don’t think you cannot do great cooking. Some people can, you’ve seen the molecular cooking where it was all about technique rather than produce and sometimes even taste. But I believe this period is finished now, I think people will come back to something more normal.

B)      One of my favourite pairings of yours was Foie gras and Nori seaweed. Where do you come up with your pairings?

A)     I think I was at Spondi in Greece six or seven years ago. I liked the mix of smokey and foie gras.

B)      Can you tell me more about your time at Spondi? I haven’t been to Greece before so I’m unfamiliar with it.

A)     It was my first position as head chef, I was there for seven years. The first year was very hard in that we had to find suppliers, we needed a rapport with the staff. The problem with Greece was we couldn’t find suppliers that were both great and consistent. One day you could have great product and the next day it would be awful.

B)      How has it been back in London, supplier wise?

A)     It has been a lot better, we use Marsh for the vegetables, Ginger Pig for the Galloway beef, and Rhug Estate for organic Lamb so we are really spoilt for choice. Beef can be neutral sometimes so I think Ginger Pig are onto a real winner with their product. All the time we try to find the best; if we are happy with suppliers now we are sure we can always do better in finding new suppliers.

B)      You had a big task as you took over from Chef Bonnet. Did you have a high turn-over of staff?

A)     In the beginning yes, we had some stay to see how the new chef would be and see how it would work out. But obviously each head chef had a personality, so they need to be able to follow them. It was quite a tough transition but I think we have come out for the best. You have to give the best to follow someone and if you can’t follow them then it is hard to stay.

B)      What were your reasons for leaving Spondi and Greece? Was it the Greek financial crisis?

A)     Yes, absolutely. The last two years I spent in Spondi were very difficult. Every day we had less and less people coming through the door and it became very tough. My old sous chef is running Spondi now, it has still kept its two stars Michelin. The team is pretty much the same over there; they work hard during the summer as they have plenty of foreign visitors. But come winter they can struggle during the cool periods. A lot of Greek people have money but the first place they cut back is definitely in eating out, drinking out. Luxuries you know? I mean, we still have old Spondi customers coming here to visit the Greenhouse so it’s always nice to catch up.

B)      The Greenhouse hasn’t changed too much since you have arrived. Do you have any plans?

A)     We’ve looked at minor changes like the Art de la table, but everything else is pretty good as it is. No immediate plans. The garden has now established itself a lot better so it has started looking very good.

B)      I think we’ve dodged the elephant in the room, congratulations on winning your second star. How does it feel to be one of the Rockstars again?

A)     Thank you! It’s nice for all the team because everyone has worked so hard for so long. It was great that we had such a great energy to work together to build something and especially for the owners as he’d been expecting it for this restaurant for many years.

B)      Does the potential for the third star drive you?

A)     I think we’re enjoying having the second star for now. We as always try to strive to be better for our guests first and foremost.  Michelin is like a game; you win one, you want two and you win two, you want three. We can’t control it so the only thing we can do is get better. We want try to be better every day.

B)      I think the Greenhouse has one of the best services I’ve experienced in London

A)     Yes, I think we try to be discreet but not overbearing. We have tried to improve the wine list also, so we have a diverse cellar of about 3500 bottles.

B)      Who on your team could you not be without? Front of house or Kitchen, I won’t put it in the interview don’t worry. Do you have a favourite? [I lied…]

A)     My entire team is great and I couldn’t be without any of them. Obviously I need my sous chef who has been great; he’s been my right arm since I arrived.

B)      You’ve given up a lot of time, as every chef does, and sacrificed a lot of time with family.

A)     I have, but luckily for me I have a very understanding wife. If you want to be one of the best and sacrifice a lot of time you need someone behind you who understands you will be working fifteen or sixteen hours a day for six days per week.

B)      How have you found your time at the Greenhouse so far? Where do you plan to take her next?

A)     I really like it. As soon as you walk in I feel very…zen. It’s peaceful but also full of good energy. From just walking from restaurant dining room to the kitchen I feel recharged and ready for the day.

B)      Do you see yourself staying for a while?

A)     Yes I’m not a person who only stays for one or two years. I was at Epicure for seven years and Spondi for seven years so I will be here for the foreseeable.

B)      Good, I’m glad you’re staying. I like your food too much.