Ben's most...
Favourite food of all time: Foie Gras- This is a controversial
choice given the nature in which it is produced. I am an animal lover also
(just ask my friends about my collection of reptiles) but, in all honesty, when
something tastes as good as Foie Gras I am willing to tolerate the process.
Rick Stein once said that “it’d be wrong to pretend this sort of food
production doesn’t exist…” and there you go. I haven’t. If there are those of
you with objections, please feel free…to keep them to yourselves.
Favourite cheese: Brillat Savarin with truffle- I first encountered
this cheese at Chapter One, in Kent and is also the restaurant which took me
on as a summer-stage worker. The cheese itself is the creamiest rich cheese
you’ll ever taste, and the layer of truffle that is placed in the middle and
allowed to infuse into the main body of the cheese gives it a strong, earthy
aroma that is just fantastic.
Favourite vegetable: pumpkin/squashes- There is something about a
good squash that you can’t ignore. Whether it be blitzed into a creamy veloute
or crushed as an alternative to potatoes to accompany meat, it is a wonderful
and comforting vegetable option.
Favourite meat: beef- how typically British of me, which is ironic
because I have eyes that go sideways and skin the colour of Homer Simpson. (yes
I AM allowed to say that, because it’s true.) Nothing can beat a great piece of
beef. My signature dish features this very beast, which I’m sure I’ll share
with you further on in the blog.
Favourite gamebird: quail- delicate little birds which, if done
really really well, can blow your freaking mind. Try quail with the breasts
roasted on the bone and removed after cooking with ballotine of leg with Foie
Gras, wrapped in pancetta. I guess the whiny hippie types from above could
replace the Foie Gras with chicken mousse but then again if you are a whiny hippie type I guess blending chicken isn't really your thing either...
Favourite gamebird: grouse- okay, quail doesn’t count as it can be
farmed now. Grouse is the wild bird of choice; Fast flying, lean and delicious.
Best eaten in the traditional manner but many have had updated proverbial
‘stabs at it’. See the menu of Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley for
details. That will be all.
Favourite wine: two options- 1) whatever is cheapest. 2) Whichever
James Flewellen texts me and also happens to be on the winelist/on the supermarket
shelves. You heard, I am THAT uncultured.
Favourite method of cooking: Steaming- it is healthy and underrated
in western cooking. As you know I am Asian and we Asians like our steaming, usually fish though. Try steaming a piece of salmon with soy
sauce, fish sauce, sesame oil, crushed ginger, lime leaves, lime juice and
cracked black pepper. 8-10 minutes should do it in one of those bamboo things
over a wok. There are, of course, modern white-man alternatives.
Favourite fish: options- 1) If cooked by me, Mackerel. Only when
fresh, nasty when not. 2) If cooked by someone else, Halibut. Not because it is
expensive, but because it tastes so damn good wherever you have it.
Underrated herb: tarragon- now, I know what you’re going to say. “Tarragon
is so aniseed-y”; yes it is. I hate aniseed normally (liquorice is the dried
nasal mucus of Satan) but tarragon goes so well with so many things. Think of
steak without bernaise sauce. Terrible right? Try tarragon over fresh pasta with
browned butter and capers. No need for meat. Yes- I just said that, but I guess
it shows how much I rate the stuff.
Hated food-stuff: cous-cous- (a lot of hyphens but necessary) Many
of my friends have heard me saying the same line over and over about how much I
hate the stuff. “Cous-cous is the work of the devil. When Saint Michael kicked
Lucifer out of Heaven, he threw cous-cous with him.” And it’s true. Anything
that requires stock to prevent it tasting of silicon beads you find in new
briefcases can’t be good. In fact, it’s the worst thing in the world. No,
roasted peppers don’t make it better and neither does meat.
Favourite meal: onglet with crushed squash and long stem broccoli-
a last minute addition to the Du Jour menu at Chapter One, once upon a time.
This was one of the simplest things I’ve eaten, comprising of only four
components, but it was delicious. Josper-roasted meat with crunchy ‘Al-Dente’
broccoli (sorry, I went there) with rich, buttery crushed butternut squash and
sauce Bordelaise. Quote Greg Wallace; “cooking, doesn’t get better than this.”
Better yet, it is so easy you can do it at home. Just griddle the
onglet/hanger/skirt steak (depending on your butcher’s/supermarket’s lingo.
Usually beef skirt in this country. Tesco, Morrison’s etc) to your liking and
serve; fancy sauce not necessary.
Favourite restaurant: Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley- the best
service one could hope for. Dimitri Bellos leading front of
house team ensures that everyone makes you feel like an old friend every time
you walk through the door. This is only exceeded by Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
where everyone seems to know your name before you even enter the reception… it’s
really weird. Anyway, off topic. The food is superb and innovative, whether you
eat the great value lunch menu or the extravagant tasting menu. I can only
think of one reason why that place hasn’t got its third star yet and that’s the
pressure from the Jr. Sommelier to have champagne and wine. Sometimes, I just
want to eat without the booze.
Best value menu in London: The Greenhouse Restaurant, Hayes Mews- 2
star food from a 2 star chef at less than 1 star price. The food is
contemporary, whacky and delicious, focusing on a lighter style of cooking.
Expect to be dining amongst chic clientele and glitterati. I regularly sit next
to the same three Taiwanese supermodels that are in every Friday lunch. The
lunch menu, priced at £29 for 3 courses at time of writing, is astonishing in
its content. The menu is changed every fortnight and focuses on seasonal
ingredients and Chef Arnaud Bignon’s masterful
interpretation of food.
Weirdest thing eaten: Pig's penis and testicle noodle soup- grammar faux pas aside, this meal was weird but delicious. This sounds odd but the soup had a certain masculine quality to it due to the earthy notes of pork, five spice and mushrooms. Kuching, Sarawak is the place to go for this wonderful treat. I can't recommend it enough. Daisy Fannin, eat your heart out. You thought VELO noodles were weird...
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